Category: FSF Choice

#2 MANA (Leavenworth, USA)

I first met Chef Colin (Patterson) on a Match.com date, my date was vegan and I had researched the “Best Vegan Restaurant in Seattle” to ensure things went well. My mind was blown that night at the small Wallingford (North Seattle) shack that housed Restaurant Sutra! As a card carrying member of the Meat Eaters of America I had no idea what food to expect, a plate of broccoli perhaps, maybe some tofu. What I got was several courses of the tastiest, best presented food I had ever eaten. I shared the experience with a rather eclectic cross-section of individuals that probably only exists in the Pacific Northwest. I think the only stipulation on dress code was a request that we wear shoes; the word “shoe” was not defined. We gave thanks to the planet and the local farmers, and we ate great food. I introduced so many friends to Sutra and was devastated to learn that the lease had expired and it was to be torn down and replaced by a condo building – because we need more of them apparently. So much for Sutra the restaurant and it’s sisters; a yoga studio and organic farm.

Fast forward a few years and I hear that Colin is opening a new restaurant across the Cascade Mountains in the Bavarian-themed town of Leavenworth, WA. Yes, just what you’d expect in the middle of Washington State, a town looking like it belonged on central European ski mountain and bragging more Sausage & Beer joints than anywhere in North America. I just had to go, and on my next trip to Seattle I made my plans to drive the 2.5 hours across Stevens Pass, have dinner at Mana and make the drive back to Seattle the same evening.

Was it worth it? I would not only repeat the pilgrimage on several subsequent trips to Seattle but suggest that every person looking for a unique dining experience do the same. In fact plan two days for fine dining excursions and head to Mana one day and the fabulous Willows Inn, near the Canadian border on Lummi Island, the next.

Chef Colin still serves ingredients that are 90% locally sourced and still gives thanks to the land and local farmers. The dishes and style are very similar to the vegan Sutra but there are now a fish and a meat course – though there are at least vegetarian alternatives offered for each of these dishes. Each of the 8-courses has an optional wine or non-alcoholic pairing.

Mana is no longer a secret and I couldn’t be happier for Colin and his family. In a fine-dining world where chefs carry tweezers and are in a constant search for trendy, unusual ingredients, Mana burns a bright torch for incredible local ingredients treated with respect and served with passion and skill. Live long and prosper Chef Colin!

The Menu

The Food

I have to admit that my last trip was a while ago and I don’t remember all the courses. I was not consistent with my photography, for which my daughter will certainly chastise me. I do always remember the salad and soup courses are a highlight.

The Chef/s

Colin Patterson, Chef & Owner

Colin started working in restaurants at the age of 15 and was formally trained at the Western Culinary Institute in Portland (OR).

In writing this blog I found out that he was an extreme skier turned yoga instructor, and that prior to my first visit to Sutra he had failed to reach the Top-16 on Season 9 of Top Chef. He also appeared on Alton Brown’s Cutthroat Kitchen, but sadly I can’t find any links to this.

I have attached a link from the Mana website. It’s longer than most chef profiles but definitely worth a read if, like me, you want to know the history of your favorite chefs. To me Colin comes across as a family man with high integrity who lives his life exactly the way he thinks he should. No pretense and no hidden motives. Colin is exactly like his food. And his food is awesome!

Currently Chef Colin is a 2019 James Beard Semi-Finalist for Best Chef Northwest.

In his own words: http://www.manamountain.com/about-colin

Social Media

Yelp: 5/5 on 74 reviews. https://www.yelp.com/biz/mana-restaurant-leavenworth?osq=mana

TripAdvisor: 4.5/5 on 38 reviews. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g58560-d10723227-Reviews-Mana-Leavenworth_Washington.html

#1 ORIOLE (Chicago, USA)

“The James Bond Experience”

My daughter and her friends think I am a British Secret Agent; hey anything to keep the hormone-heavy boys away – right dads? So, on a recent trip to Chicago I decided skip Chef Grant Achatz’s Alinea and find something more fitting for my “James Bond” character. Q has been made redundant by Google and OpenTable has sent Moneypenny into early retirement, so with just a little technology I opted to try rising super-star Chef Noah Sandoval’s Oriole.

Opened in 2016 in a “covert alleyway” Oriole has earned 2 Michelin Stars, and based on my experience I would think a third can’t be too far away. Fourteen plus courses without a miss and filled with high-end ingredients show-cased in beautifully constructed plates; oysters, caviar (From Russia with Love), truffles, urchin, Foie Gras and Wagyu. I am a fan of the trend for adding beers and teas to drinks pairings and would have liked to seen this – the wines chosen were of course excellent however. My lasting memory was the Delice De Bourgogne soufflé; how have I never had this before Pastry Chef Courtney Kenyon?

If indeed You Only Live Twice, I suggest that an evening dressed in classical dinner attire at Oriole starting out with a vodka martini “shaken not stirred” needs to be in your future plans. I promise not a Quantum of Solace.

Random Trivia: Prior to the James Bond films the vast majority of martinis were gin-based; the movies really supported the transition to vodka. Happily for this spy the gin industry is in the midst of a major reinvention and there is so much to explore. Try a barrel-aged gin like Pigskin, you will be surprised.

The Menu

The Food

Fourteen excellent plates with wine pairings. I’m not a great dessert eater so that wasn’t my favorite part of the meal… but that souffle!

The Chef/s

Noah Sandoval, Chef & Owner:

Noah Sandoval has earned Michelin Stars (one at Senza, two at Oriole). He has been named to Food & Wine’s 2017 list of “Best New Chefs,” — pretty good for a chef who got into cooking to make pocket money while playing in a punk band.

Like many chefs, he started washing dishes in his teens, worked his way up to the salad station, and found a mentor in Chef David Shannon of L’Opossum in Richmond, Virginia. Sandoval moved to Chicago to work for Marcus Samuelsson at C-House, and later as sous chef at Shawn McClain’s Spring and Michael Carson’s Schwa.

Sandoval transitioned to run the gluten free daytime menu at Senza. Then, as Senza’s reputation and awards mounted, the restaurant expanded its hours and menu for dinner service. Sandoval then set to open a restaurant of his own with the help of his wife, Cara Sandoval, whom he met at Senza. Interactive, tasting-menu-only Oriole opened in March 2016. 

Courtney Kenyon, Pastry Chef:

In March 2018 Courtney Kenyon was promoted from Pastry Sous to replace the departing Pastry Chef Genie Kwon. Kwon had been at Oriole since it’s opening and came with an extensive US and international resume. Kenyon was an entirely different story.

She studied Pastry Arts at ENSP until May 2015, joining Kwon’s team at Oriole in August 2016. Eighteen months later she takes over the mantle of Pastry Chef at a Michelin restaurant. You just have to love that they had the confidence to promote from within. Good luck finding much about her using Google!

Social Media

Yelp: 5/5 on 234 reviews. https://www.yelp.com/biz/oriole-chicago?osq=oriole

TripAdvisor: 5/5 114 reviews. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g35805-d10055903-Reviews-Oriole-Chicago_Illinois.html