Author: firststopfood2019

#3 LE STELLA (Paris, France)

Three Italians, two Englishman and a Parisian walk into a bar (brasserie) …

Two weeks ago I was on a regular business trip to Europe, I typically make the hop from Boston once or twice a month and visit a few different cities each time. I also get to spend at least one night visiting my aging mother – quite possibly the worst cook in the world and likely responsible for the (out-dated) global view that English food is terrible!

Day 1 started after arriving Gatwick from JFK on the Norwegian Shuttle late Sunday and a short (4-hour) sleep near St Pancras station. I met my coworker and boarded the Eurostar train to Paris (more later on this experience). After greeting our Italian and French business partners, a process that can take quite a while, we had about 90-minutes before it was time for lunch. Our French host had picked a meeting spot close to his condo and selected Le Stella to satisfy our Italian guests request for oysters.

The three Italians and I decided to opt for Les Plateaux De Fruits De Mer; we ordered two of Le Plateau Du Stella and some French Fries (aka Freedom Fries). Our Parisian host ordered a plate of oysters and some large local sausage. My English coworker ordered a bowl of French Onion Soup – seriously Stan!

There were a few things on the plate that I hadn’t eaten since my pre-teenage years on the south coast of England. I finally found out that Whelks and Winkles (small Whelks) are common forms of sea snails. In England we would normally eat them in vinegar, in France you lightly cook them and eat them from the shells.

It was quite the feast and washed down with a crisp white wine. We finished everything apart from a few Winkles. The Langoustine were a little over but everything else was perfect.

Eurostar Debacle

Our morning train on Eurostar from London to Paris under the 31-mile English Channel (Le tunnel sous la Manche) was a perfect alternative to the hop to CDG and fighting traffic south into the city. However on returning to Gare du Nord station for the 8pm return we were greeted by mass confusion. Apparently the French border control agents decided to strike over the potential additional work they would have to do if Brexit occurred. Yes a strike about something that might at some point impact them in the future!

As a rule I have learned that service industries should not be judged when things are proceeding on the normal ‘happy’ path but rather how they respond when unusual things happen. In this case Eurostar was a complete failure. An official came out and casually stated “all trains are cancelled today”, nothing was added, no qualifiers, no “we have rebooked you all…”. People asked questions about extra train capacity for the following day – as the trains are typically full and the chance of getting out were limited at best. What about hotels for the night? Crickets! Pathetic!!!

Social Media

Yelp: 4/5 stars on 62 reviews. https://www.yelp.com/biz/le-stella-paris

TripAdvisor: 4/5 stars on 592 reviews. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187147-d719434-Reviews-Le_Stella-Paris_Ile_de_France.html

#2 MANA (Leavenworth, USA)

I first met Chef Colin (Patterson) on a Match.com date, my date was vegan and I had researched the “Best Vegan Restaurant in Seattle” to ensure things went well. My mind was blown that night at the small Wallingford (North Seattle) shack that housed Restaurant Sutra! As a card carrying member of the Meat Eaters of America I had no idea what food to expect, a plate of broccoli perhaps, maybe some tofu. What I got was several courses of the tastiest, best presented food I had ever eaten. I shared the experience with a rather eclectic cross-section of individuals that probably only exists in the Pacific Northwest. I think the only stipulation on dress code was a request that we wear shoes; the word “shoe” was not defined. We gave thanks to the planet and the local farmers, and we ate great food. I introduced so many friends to Sutra and was devastated to learn that the lease had expired and it was to be torn down and replaced by a condo building – because we need more of them apparently. So much for Sutra the restaurant and it’s sisters; a yoga studio and organic farm.

Fast forward a few years and I hear that Colin is opening a new restaurant across the Cascade Mountains in the Bavarian-themed town of Leavenworth, WA. Yes, just what you’d expect in the middle of Washington State, a town looking like it belonged on central European ski mountain and bragging more Sausage & Beer joints than anywhere in North America. I just had to go, and on my next trip to Seattle I made my plans to drive the 2.5 hours across Stevens Pass, have dinner at Mana and make the drive back to Seattle the same evening.

Was it worth it? I would not only repeat the pilgrimage on several subsequent trips to Seattle but suggest that every person looking for a unique dining experience do the same. In fact plan two days for fine dining excursions and head to Mana one day and the fabulous Willows Inn, near the Canadian border on Lummi Island, the next.

Chef Colin still serves ingredients that are 90% locally sourced and still gives thanks to the land and local farmers. The dishes and style are very similar to the vegan Sutra but there are now a fish and a meat course – though there are at least vegetarian alternatives offered for each of these dishes. Each of the 8-courses has an optional wine or non-alcoholic pairing.

Mana is no longer a secret and I couldn’t be happier for Colin and his family. In a fine-dining world where chefs carry tweezers and are in a constant search for trendy, unusual ingredients, Mana burns a bright torch for incredible local ingredients treated with respect and served with passion and skill. Live long and prosper Chef Colin!

The Menu

The Food

I have to admit that my last trip was a while ago and I don’t remember all the courses. I was not consistent with my photography, for which my daughter will certainly chastise me. I do always remember the salad and soup courses are a highlight.

The Chef/s

Colin Patterson, Chef & Owner

Colin started working in restaurants at the age of 15 and was formally trained at the Western Culinary Institute in Portland (OR).

In writing this blog I found out that he was an extreme skier turned yoga instructor, and that prior to my first visit to Sutra he had failed to reach the Top-16 on Season 9 of Top Chef. He also appeared on Alton Brown’s Cutthroat Kitchen, but sadly I can’t find any links to this.

I have attached a link from the Mana website. It’s longer than most chef profiles but definitely worth a read if, like me, you want to know the history of your favorite chefs. To me Colin comes across as a family man with high integrity who lives his life exactly the way he thinks he should. No pretense and no hidden motives. Colin is exactly like his food. And his food is awesome!

Currently Chef Colin is a 2019 James Beard Semi-Finalist for Best Chef Northwest.

In his own words: http://www.manamountain.com/about-colin

Social Media

Yelp: 5/5 on 74 reviews. https://www.yelp.com/biz/mana-restaurant-leavenworth?osq=mana

TripAdvisor: 4.5/5 on 38 reviews. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g58560-d10723227-Reviews-Mana-Leavenworth_Washington.html

#1 ORIOLE (Chicago, USA)

“The James Bond Experience”

My daughter and her friends think I am a British Secret Agent; hey anything to keep the hormone-heavy boys away – right dads? So, on a recent trip to Chicago I decided skip Chef Grant Achatz’s Alinea and find something more fitting for my “James Bond” character. Q has been made redundant by Google and OpenTable has sent Moneypenny into early retirement, so with just a little technology I opted to try rising super-star Chef Noah Sandoval’s Oriole.

Opened in 2016 in a “covert alleyway” Oriole has earned 2 Michelin Stars, and based on my experience I would think a third can’t be too far away. Fourteen plus courses without a miss and filled with high-end ingredients show-cased in beautifully constructed plates; oysters, caviar (From Russia with Love), truffles, urchin, Foie Gras and Wagyu. I am a fan of the trend for adding beers and teas to drinks pairings and would have liked to seen this – the wines chosen were of course excellent however. My lasting memory was the Delice De Bourgogne soufflé; how have I never had this before Pastry Chef Courtney Kenyon?

If indeed You Only Live Twice, I suggest that an evening dressed in classical dinner attire at Oriole starting out with a vodka martini “shaken not stirred” needs to be in your future plans. I promise not a Quantum of Solace.

Random Trivia: Prior to the James Bond films the vast majority of martinis were gin-based; the movies really supported the transition to vodka. Happily for this spy the gin industry is in the midst of a major reinvention and there is so much to explore. Try a barrel-aged gin like Pigskin, you will be surprised.

The Menu

The Food

Fourteen excellent plates with wine pairings. I’m not a great dessert eater so that wasn’t my favorite part of the meal… but that souffle!

The Chef/s

Noah Sandoval, Chef & Owner:

Noah Sandoval has earned Michelin Stars (one at Senza, two at Oriole). He has been named to Food & Wine’s 2017 list of “Best New Chefs,” — pretty good for a chef who got into cooking to make pocket money while playing in a punk band.

Like many chefs, he started washing dishes in his teens, worked his way up to the salad station, and found a mentor in Chef David Shannon of L’Opossum in Richmond, Virginia. Sandoval moved to Chicago to work for Marcus Samuelsson at C-House, and later as sous chef at Shawn McClain’s Spring and Michael Carson’s Schwa.

Sandoval transitioned to run the gluten free daytime menu at Senza. Then, as Senza’s reputation and awards mounted, the restaurant expanded its hours and menu for dinner service. Sandoval then set to open a restaurant of his own with the help of his wife, Cara Sandoval, whom he met at Senza. Interactive, tasting-menu-only Oriole opened in March 2016. 

Courtney Kenyon, Pastry Chef:

In March 2018 Courtney Kenyon was promoted from Pastry Sous to replace the departing Pastry Chef Genie Kwon. Kwon had been at Oriole since it’s opening and came with an extensive US and international resume. Kenyon was an entirely different story.

She studied Pastry Arts at ENSP until May 2015, joining Kwon’s team at Oriole in August 2016. Eighteen months later she takes over the mantle of Pastry Chef at a Michelin restaurant. You just have to love that they had the confidence to promote from within. Good luck finding much about her using Google!

Social Media

Yelp: 5/5 on 234 reviews. https://www.yelp.com/biz/oriole-chicago?osq=oriole

TripAdvisor: 5/5 114 reviews. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g35805-d10055903-Reviews-Oriole-Chicago_Illinois.html

Welcome to First Stop? Food

Thanks for joining us!

As Dad and Daughter we have traveled the globe, sometimes independently and sometimes together. We share a passion for great food and a willingness to explore with our local hosts; whether it be Michelin-starred in the US or EU, or street food in Xi’an, China. 

We’ll share our favorites as well as those that just didn’t quite cut it. We’ll also provide information on the chefs and any useful tips that might help you enjoy visiting the same places. 

Enjoy!