“The James Bond Experience”
My daughter and her friends think I am a British Secret Agent; hey anything to keep the hormone-heavy boys away – right dads? So, on a recent trip to Chicago I decided skip Chef Grant Achatz’s Alinea and find something more fitting for my “James Bond” character. Q has been made redundant by Google and OpenTable has sent Moneypenny into early retirement, so with just a little technology I opted to try rising super-star Chef Noah Sandoval’s Oriole.
Opened in 2016 in a “covert alleyway” Oriole has earned 2 Michelin Stars, and based on my experience I would think a third can’t be too far away. Fourteen plus courses without a miss and filled with high-end ingredients show-cased in beautifully constructed plates; oysters, caviar (From Russia with Love), truffles, urchin, Foie Gras and Wagyu. I am a fan of the trend for adding beers and teas to drinks pairings and would have liked to seen this – the wines chosen were of course excellent however. My lasting memory was the Delice De Bourgogne soufflé; how have I never had this before Pastry Chef Courtney Kenyon?
If indeed You Only Live Twice, I suggest that an evening dressed in classical dinner attire at Oriole starting out with a vodka martini “shaken not stirred” needs to be in your future plans. I promise not a Quantum of Solace.
Random Trivia: Prior to the James Bond films the vast majority of martinis were gin-based; the movies really supported the transition to vodka. Happily for this spy the gin industry is in the midst of a major reinvention and there is so much to explore. Try a barrel-aged gin like Pigskin, you will be surprised.
The Menu
The Food
Fourteen excellent plates with wine pairings. I’m not a great dessert eater so that wasn’t my favorite part of the meal… but that souffle!
The Chef/s
Noah Sandoval, Chef & Owner:
Noah Sandoval has earned Michelin Stars (one at Senza, two at Oriole). He has been named to Food & Wine’s 2017 list of “Best New Chefs,” — pretty good for a chef who got into cooking to make pocket money while playing in a punk band.
Like many chefs, he started washing dishes in his teens, worked his way up to the salad station, and found a mentor in Chef David Shannon of L’Opossum in Richmond, Virginia. Sandoval moved to Chicago to work for Marcus Samuelsson at C-House, and later as sous chef at Shawn McClain’s Spring and Michael Carson’s Schwa.
Sandoval transitioned to run the gluten free daytime menu at Senza. Then, as Senza’s reputation and awards mounted, the restaurant expanded its hours and menu for dinner service. Sandoval then set to open a restaurant of his own with the help of his wife, Cara Sandoval, whom he met at Senza. Interactive, tasting-menu-only Oriole opened in March 2016.
Courtney Kenyon, Pastry Chef:
In March 2018 Courtney Kenyon was promoted from Pastry Sous to replace the departing Pastry Chef Genie Kwon. Kwon had been at Oriole since it’s opening and came with an extensive US and international resume. Kenyon was an entirely different story.
She studied Pastry Arts at ENSP until May 2015, joining Kwon’s team at Oriole in August 2016. Eighteen months later she takes over the mantle of Pastry Chef at a Michelin restaurant. You just have to love that they had the confidence to promote from within. Good luck finding much about her using Google!
Social Media
Yelp: 5/5 on 234 reviews. https://www.yelp.com/biz/oriole-chicago?osq=oriole
TripAdvisor: 5/5 114 reviews. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g35805-d10055903-Reviews-Oriole-Chicago_Illinois.html
First Stop? Food 